Wise person, moving their established Korean restaurant a stones throw from Daewoo Hotel, with its high percentage of Korean and Japanese guests. Plus it;s near the Van Phuc Diplomatic compound. A bit of a trek from Hanoi's centre, Han Kook Kwan nonetheless is a good introduction to Korean cuisine. Amongst no-frills, canteen-style wooden tables and simple decor, staff attired in traditional costume are helpful and the Korean manager, charming.

Here traditional home cooking is dished out, overseen by the Executive Chef from Korea. We ordered "main" plates made to share: first, fried minced pork dumplings (remarkably similar to Dim Sum, $3) dipped in soy sauce and rich, glutinous fried glass noodles with beef slivers and vegetables (Jab Cha, $6).

Both dishes traditional and usually served for special occasions. The bowl of kim chi stew ($4) was spicy but delicious, as too was the hot stone bowl with rice, vegetables, raw egg and mince pork ($5). While the utensil is still piping hot, mix together all ingredients and hey presto, you've got a tasty Asian risotto. This offsets the fiery kim chi stew, but there is the option of stirring in a wicked chilli sauce (at your peril). These came with a selection of smaller dishes that accompany the above, included in the price and not on the menu, as these change regularly.

Of course, there was kim chi, very spicy yet tasty, black kidney beans in sesame seeds, green beans mixed with beef slivers and chilli, and slices of spicy white fish. Balancing the spiciness was the steamed rice and a more neutral seaweed dish. Due to the hot, spicy nature of the dishes, water is provided free; you could opt for the Korean rice wine, but this might be like adding fuel to fire.